If your electric roller shutter hums but will not move, cuts out part way or has stopped responding altogether, we can send a local engineer who tests and repairs shutter motors across Liverpool and Merseyside. The fault is not always the motor itself; capacitors, limit switches, controls and wiring are often to blame, and checking these first can save the cost of a new motor.
Where the motor has genuinely failed, the engineer can usually supply and fit a suitable replacement.
Tubular and external shutter motors
There are two main kinds of motor on roller shutters:
- Tubular motors slide inside the barrel and turn it directly. They are tidy and quiet and are used on most domestic and shop shutters. They are sealed, so internal faults usually mean replacement.
- External motors mount beside the barrel and drive it through a chain or directly onto the shaft. They are common on large and industrial shutters, and parts such as brakes, limit switches and capacitors can often be changed.
Both types have limit settings that tell the motor where to stop at the top and bottom, and most have some form of manual override for when the power or motor fails.
Symptoms and what they usually mean
| Symptom | Likely cause |
|---|---|
| Motor hums, shutter does not move | Failed capacitor, seized motor, brake not releasing, jammed curtain |
| Runs for a while then stops | Thermal overload from heavy use, motor struggling against a tight curtain |
| Overruns at top or bottom | Limit switches drifted or failed |
| Only works in one direction | Switch or wiring fault, one motor winding failed |
| No sound at all | Supply tripped, fuse, control box, key switch or receiver fault |
| Clicking with no movement | Relay in the control box operating but the motor not responding |
A motor that keeps overheating is often a symptom rather than the cause. If the curtain is binding in the guide rails or the barrel bearings are worn, the motor has to work harder. A good engineer will look at the whole shutter, as described on the main roller shutter repair page.
Using the manual override
Most electric shutters have a way to operate them without power. On many domestic and shop shutters this is a crank handle that fits into a gearbox on the motor, while industrial shutters often have a hand chain. Some tubular motors have no override at all, which can leave you stuck until an engineer arrives.
If you use an override, do it slowly and stop if it feels heavy or locked. Forcing it can damage the gearbox. If the shutter is stuck closed and you need to trade, or stuck open overnight, emergency roller shutter repair explains how urgent call-outs work.
How motor faults are diagnosed and repaired
- Check the supply. Fuses, isolators and the incoming power are confirmed first.
- Test the controls. Key switches, buttons, remote receivers and the control box are tested to see whether the signal reaches the motor.
- Check the curtain. The shutter is run manually if possible to make sure the curtain moves freely and is not jammed.
- Test the motor. Windings, capacitor and brake are checked.
- Quote. You are given a price for the repair or replacement before work starts.
- Repair or replace and set limits. The new or repaired motor is fitted and the top and bottom limits set.
Many motor repairs are completed in one visit if a suitable motor or part is on the van; less common motors may need ordering.
What affects the cost of a shutter motor repair
- Whether the fault is in the motor or in cheaper parts such as a capacitor or switch.
- The size and torque of motor needed for the weight of the curtain.
- Whether the barrel needs to come down to change a tubular motor.
- Access to the hood box, especially on shopfronts or high loading bays.
- Out-of-hours timing and whether the motor is a stock item.
The engineer will give you a price after diagnosing the fault and before starting work.
Repair the motor or replace it?
For external motors, replacing a brake, limit switch or capacitor is often worthwhile. Tubular motors that have burnt out are usually replaced. If the motor is old and the curtain and barrel are also worn, it may be time to think about the whole shutter; roller shutter installation covers new shutters. If you have a manual shutter and want it motorised, see manual to electric shutter conversion.
Shutter motors in Liverpool premises
A lot of motor failures across Merseyside come from damp. Rain blown into hood boxes and moisture getting into key switches and cable entries can cause tripping and corrosion, especially on exposed shop fronts and units near the river. Takeaways and convenience stores that open and close their shutters several times a day also put more strain on motors than they were designed for. Annual checks under roller shutter servicing often pick up a struggling motor before it fails.
For garage door motors rather than shutter motors, the same number covers garage door repairs in Liverpool.
Frequently asked questions
Why does my shutter motor hum but not move?
Often the capacitor has failed, the brake is not releasing or the curtain is jammed. Stop pressing the switch to avoid overheating the motor and get it checked.
Can a tubular shutter motor be repaired?
Tubular motors are sealed units, so internal faults are usually dealt with by fitting a replacement. External faults such as wiring or controls can be repaired.
My shutter stops a little short of the ground. Is the motor faulty?
Usually not. The limit settings have probably drifted and can be reset. If they keep moving, the limit switch may need replacing.
Will a new motor match my existing shutter?
The engineer will choose a motor sized for the weight and barrel of your shutter. In most cases the existing curtain, barrel and controls can be kept.
Is it safe to open the motor housing myself?
It is not recommended. Shutter motors run on mains power and the curtain can drop if the brake is released. Leave it to an engineer.